Dr. Denise Eblen, who holds a doctorate in food safety microbiology from the University of Ulster at Jordanstown, is the top executive at the USDA’s Food Safety and Inspection Service, where she is known as “The Administrator.”

Outgoing Secretary of Agriculture Tom Vilsack elevated her to the position on Dec. 9, 2024, just days before his administration ended. The backstory is not known. Vilsack may have wanted Paul Kieker, appointed by former Secretary of Agriculture Sonny Perdue, removed as the FSIS Administrator. Or, Kiecker, after five years as FSIS leader, might have wanted to go back into the field.

While the White House has not commented on the president naming a USDA Under Secretary for Food Safety to succeed Dr. Jose Emilio Esteban, the USDA has also listed Eblen as the Acting Deputy Under Secretary. Esteban was the USDA Under Secretary for Food Safety for two years and 29 days. 

While it is difficult to remain current, FSIS is a $1 billion-plus agency with as many as 10,000 employees responsible for, among other things, daily inspections of about 6,200 meat and poultry establishments, plus additional egg and catfish businesses.  The Office for Food Safety (OFS) is accountable for food safety policy and oversight of FSIS operations.

Until the U.S. Senate selects a new Under Secretary for Food Safety, Eblen will be checking her own work — and this isn’t a first at the USDA. Al Almanza, who was FSIS Administrator for more than a decade, was also “dual-hatted,” as the military calls it. He was the FSIS Administrator and USDA’...